2004 Oberhauser Brucke Auslese

“Here is where ambition sets in,” remarks Donnhoff of his decision to harvest the 2004 Oberhaueser Brucke Riesling Auslese A.P. #21. Stringently selected for more botrytis than the #16, this Auslese is positively ethereal in aroma, featuring pure botrytis, honey, jellied red currant, distilled red raspberry, peppermint and brown spices. The palate is as bright, honeyed, and oily in texture as the nose leads one to imagine, and as buoyant and elegant as the best wines here today would lead one to hope. One has the impression of spiced and tangerine zest-studded red fruits glazed with honey and folded into vanilla cream. Botrytis might get more obvious or advanced, but it can scarcely be nobler than in this instance. Yet for all that, the wine is so refreshingly, succulently, fresh-fruitedly juicy that it seems capable of quenching the deepest thirst. “Fruit cubed” I ventured ? and, no, I wasn’t thinking of Jell-o! The purity, penetration, reach and concentration of the finish are truly extraordinary, and I was beginning to fear at this point that adjectival as well as sensory overload – or possibly an Alice experience - were but one more sip away. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300