2005 Grands Echezeaux

I was blown away by the 2005 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru because though I have tasted it two or three times, never could I envisage that it would reach this level. It has laser-like precision on the nose with more blue fruit than I remember, so much mineralité, as if someone had just ground limestone directly into the wine glass. The palate is exquisitely balanced with filigree tannins framing the pure red fruit, a Pinot Noir with unerring symmetry. It gains weight and depth with aeration, ultimately transforming into a profound wine and one of the best bottles of Grands-Echézeaux that I have tasted from the domaine. Tasted at Noizé restaurant in London.

Fresh ruby-red color. Black raspberry, mocha, smoky spices and earth on the rather discreet nose. Sweet but high-pitched, communicating an impression of more youthful fruit than the Echezeaux. This boasts terrific lift and aromatic intensity in the mouth but is quite backward today. Finishes extremely long, with nicely integrated tannins and excellent verve. I love the energy here. But this will need 15 years.