2006 Corton Bressandes

The Prieur 2006 Corton Bressandes – while picked first – hit the highest level of natural alcohol at this address for the vintage, nearly 13.5%. Blackberry, lingonberry, mint, iodine, black tea, and hints of Demararra brown sugar combine for a winsome nose. Superb concentration of bitter-sweet fruits, herbs, pepper, and mineral shadings inform an expansive vividly juicy and primary-fruited, yet also palpably dense and firm palate. The staining and invigorating intensity of finish here by no means precluded lift and sheer refreshment. Plan on giving it a few years before revisiting this beauty; then on following it at least through the teens of this century. Enologist Nadine Gublin reports that the Prieur team performed a severe triage of 2006 Pinot – especially from the Cote de Beaune – both in the vineyards and on tables. The fine results speak for themselves, boasting (with one exception) purity of fruit and complexity, as well as a range of distinctively 2006 virtues. Their Chambertin – which, like the wine from their other grand crus, had been assembled but not yet bottled when I last tasted them – presented a special challenge due to the degree to which the Prieur parcels were damaged by hail, and a decision was made to declassify even the small amount of fruit that was vinified. The Pinot crop was harvested at 12.5-13.5% potential alcohol; required no adjustment; and was all destemmed. The wines were (or will for the most part have been) lightly plaque-filtered. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700