2005 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

Relatively dark crimson. Very rich and really rather majestic. Long and seriously deep and well-balanced and promising for the money. GV (JR)

Vinified with half whole clusters and aged in nearly all new barrels, Esmonin’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (nicknamed “Sylvie”) originates in vines of 60 or more years of age in a variety of parcels including the Clos Prieur. The parcels are fermented separately, then blended at pressing. The atmospheric pressure had been unwilling to cooperate so these barrels and those of the Clos St.-Jacques remained un-racked, but I tasted a representative blend. A deep aroma of black cherry, beef stock and dark chocolate leads into a striking mouthful of chocolate richness and sweet, subtly caramelized ripeness, yet possessed of the same sort of bright fresh fruit as is the “regular” Gevrey cuvee, along with a deep-seated, soy- and meat-stock savor. Persistent ripe richness is accompanied in the finish by rumbling, rolling low tones of stones and chalk and at the same time high-pitched notes of black fruit distillates and salt. Sylvie Esmonin is a staunch believer in the use of whole clusters with stems (“the method of my grandfather’s day”) to enhance florality, fruit and structure, which presupposes late harvest. But she claims that this method of vinification itself helps moderate the efficiency of alcoholic conversion. In any event, levels of alcohol were the last thing noticeable as I was wowed by this year’s collection which, as usual, she planned not to begin bottling any earlier than April. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191.

(50% whole clusters; aging in 80% new oak) Saturated ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, licorice and minerals; less open than the regular village wine, but then this only finished its malo in September. There's an almost medicinal austerity today along with a liqueur-like sweetness. Superconcentrated, dense and powerful, with brooding flavors of black cherry and mocha. This needs further elevage Really saturates the palate on the back, finishing with substantial but suave tannins. Promises to be a superb village bottling.