2006 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Buying options
Tasting notes
From 60-80 year old vines in En Champ, Combe du Dessus (by his cuverie) and several smaller estate parcels north of the village, Mortet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes received 75% new wood, but the evidence has been buried. Scents of rose hip, dark cherry, and indefinite floral perfumes lead into a silken, subtly saline and savory palate that strikes a thought-provoking as well as sensually satisfying balance between elements carnal, mineral, and fruity. This displays the lift and refinement that render so many 2006s charming, and while it will probably hold up well to 5-7 years of bottle age, I can see no reason for long-deferring the pleasure of its company. For his first entirely solo vintage, Arnaud Mortet was saddled with a load of challenges, most notably the legacy of hail in so many of his vineyards. His reaction was to back off on extraction and new wood, trends which he seems inclined to continue pursuing even in less tricky vintages. He opines that the "acid structure" of his 2006s – which are also amply endowed with largely fine-grained tannins – will help them age well. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Good full, bright red. Vibrant aromas of raspberry, cherry, dark chocolate and game; very Gevrey. Then creamier in the middle than the village offering, with more sweetness and mouth coverage to the dark fruit, mineral and spice flavors. Actually quite showy today, and balanced from the outset. Finishes with very good texture and length.
(from vines between 50 and 100 years old, with yields generally held down by millerandage Good deep red with ruby highlights. Brooding, darker, more medicinal nose suggests a more serious wine. Very ripe but structured, precise and quite tight, with lovely energy and impressive persistence. Finishes with a note of espresso. The malo was very late here, notes Mortet, which helps to explain why this potentially strong village wine is so unevolved.
90 year old vines I’m told! Really amazing. Very rich and round and very hedonistic – one might almost call it an American cuvée except that D Schildknecht won’t be impressed by sheer richness. But by any lights this is really great wine. So glad to see this domaine bounce back. A wine to swallow rather than spit. Great stuff. So confident and long. (JR)
About the producer
This estate, today with Arnaud Mortet at the helm, makes some of Gevrey-Chambertin’s finest wines. Working with 16 hectares, as well as a few négociant parcels, this property makes perfumed and chiselled Pinot Noir.