1996 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

Produced from vines ranging in age from 30 to 50 years old, this medium-to-dark ruby-colored wine was crafted using 20% new oak barrels. It displays roses, minerals, and cherries on the nose, and offers a juicy, silky-textured, medium-bodied, and gorgeously sweet core of black cherries. Its slightly dry finish prevented this wine from reaching the heights it had a year ago (it is also not as concentrated or dense as its older sibling). Drink it between 2000 and 2005. Bernard Dugat, with the assistance of his charming wife, son, and daughter, has fashioned extraordinary 1996s, nothing new for this family who, since the 1993 vintage, has been crafting some of Burgundy's finest wines. As I left Dugat-Py's cellars (her maiden name is Py and they added it to the estate's name to differentiate themselves from Bernard's famous cousin Claude) I felt that while his 1996's were superb, his 1995s were even better. With reflection, and with my notes from both tastings in hand, I realize that it comes down to the specific wines. Certain terroirs performed better in '95, and others in '96, most probably due to the weather which dramatically cut back yields in 1995 Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.