2008 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur

Peat and pepper, crushed stone and cherry pit all convey a pungent and somewhat austere aura to Roty’s 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, although it evinces ripe, concentrated, if slightly tart, black fruits on the palate. A whiff of game follows from nose to tail, and there is stiffness as well as a faintly radish-like bite in a finish that, while persistent, is not especially expressive. Perhaps this is at an awkward stage. In any case, it should certainly have 8-10 years’ stamina, and deserves to be revisited. Philippe Roty insists that because of his rigorous canopy-management and green harvesting, plus a further late summer crop-drop, rot was not the problem for him in 2008 (or for that matter in 2007). But ripeness, he readily acknowledged, was. “In 2008, we simply lacked 8 or 10 days of sunshine,” he concludes, admitting that he harvested his lesser terroirs first (beginning September 23) and his grand crus last. “Which would you want to make sure ripens, Bourgogne or Charmes Chambertin?” he asked with a rhetorical laugh. This reversal of normal procedure – when taken together with the cautious extraction Roty felt committed to buy unripe pips – resulted in a 2008 collection that is mildly disappointing in its lowest echelons and among village Gevreys, though the Marsannays continued to offer considerable interest for their modest prices, whereas they were decidedly weaker partners in 2007. (Since the 2008 hail in Marsannay hit largely in the Chenove direction, it had little effect on Roty’s locations.) Tasting at the press and halting pressing as soon as bitterness or under-ripeness were detected was, says Roty, another critical factor in rendering satisfying 2008s. Malos – other than two stubborn whites on which Roty simply gave up! – finished here on a normal schedule at the end of their first winter, and thus in no way compromised his plan to as usual bottle the wines in April. I tasted in late February a pre-assemblage set aside for me two weeks in advance of my visit because in the meantime all of the lots had been sulfured in barrel. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Good full red. Pure, primary aromas of black cherry, violet, licorice and crushed stone. Not a supple style but stony and penetrating, with very good cut to the black fruit and violet flavors. This nicely delineated wine finishes firmly tannic and persistent, with good grip.