2005 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur leads with scents of ripe blackberry and black cherry, offers a fascinating counterpoint of plush texture and black fruit and bitter chocolate low-tones on the one hand and a bright, juicy berry-preservation and invigorating salinity on the other. These virtues over-ride the slightly rustic tannins and gross manifestations of barrel that also emerge in the finish. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (86), 2005 Bourgogne Aminima ($25.00; 85), 2005 Marsannay (86). Young Jean-Louis Trapet evinces an inspiring degree of sincerity and that rarest of human virtues “humbition”. He is clearly determined to return his family’s estate to the celebrated place they occupied on the international stage for much of the late 20th century, and thinks a critical tool is the practice of biodynamics, in which the domaine was recently officially certified. Nature certainly cooperated in 2005 almost regardless of method let alone metaphysics, and this is a promising collection. The wines are not sulfured at all during their elevage, and only minimally at bottling, demanding that the typical taster re-calibrate his or her palate accordingly. A Patrick Lesec Selection (various importers), Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23.

Good deep red. Musky aromas of raspberry, chocolate, game and black olive, with a distinct mineral tang. Juicy and tightly wound; much less expressive today than the Ostrea. Finishes with building, rather austere tannins and a touch of dryness.