2005 Hermitage La Chapelle

Magnum. Released from the estate in 2025. Deep garnet colour. Meaty and chocolatey on the nose. Hearty and structural; the tannins are still shag-pile thick, but the high acid helps to keep the wine drinkable. There's a little desiccation on the finish, but nothing out of keeping with a wine of this age. An honest, powerful Hermitage, showing the typical meatiness of maturity. (RH)

Now fully mature, the 2005 Hermitage La Chapelle is a leaner, more linear, medium-bodied example of this wine that has aged gracefully. It offers terrific aromatics of red and black currants, smoked meat, leather, soy sauce, and ground pepper, and on the palate, it has resolved tannins and some of the rusticity that was present in its youth has faded away. Today, it's silky and seamless, with a charming, elegant profile. It's not going to get any better, but it certainly has another decade of prime drinking, and a gradual decline after that. This is the first vintage where owner Caroline Frey was involved and was responsible for the blending of this wine.

Ripe, almost jammy style of fruit. Firmly tannic, with tangy acidity, and rather overt oak scent. Rather awkwardly arranged. The components are all high quality, but aren't especially well knit. (RH)