2008 Chablis Vaudesir

Grapefruit and pineapple supply a luscious fundament to the Moreau 2008 Chablis Vaudesir, but this is also a seductively creamy as well as palpably dense cru, less intricate, refined, or elegant than the corresponding Blanchots, and with a toasty note from barrel running all the way through. Hints of chalk and cherry pit introduce a faint note of austerity to the finish. This wine from relatively young vines may well need more time than most of the wines in its collection to harmonize and find its voice. I’d want to revisit it before speculating about age-worthiness beyond a suggestion that it certainly would merit a half dozen years of attention. Christian and Fabien Moreau are among those fans of 2008 who think of the vintage as combining the best aspects of its two predecessors. “You just watched the grapes go rolling by on the table de trie,” remarks Christian Moreau, “without having to do any work.” However one conceptualizes it, results in 2008 are superb and to my palate the top wines are considerably more exciting than any I have previously tasted from this address. Fermentations were generally allowed to proceed spontaneously rather than being yeasted – and in consequence both alcoholic and malo-lactic fermentations of several lots lasted until April – which might account for some of the added complexity and refinement as well as effective digestion of their oak component that characterizes these superb wines. (The Moreaus’ effusive 2009s – from a vintage they compare with 2000 – finished fermenting a bit earlier, and were extremely promising when tasted this April, demonstrating that this domaine is on a roll.) Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700