2009 Chablis Vaudesir

(includes some fruit from the north side of the cru harvested very late (on October 10), plus some La Moutonne purchased from Long-Depaquit): Bright light yellow. Discreet metallic lift to the aromas of lime, apple, crushed stone and flint. Dense but light on its feet, with lovely inner-mouth perfume to the apple and mineral flavors. This really coats the mouth and saturates the palate on the dusty, tactile, very suave aftertaste. Desplans believes that this could surpass the Bougros VV a decade hence. This is an excellent set of 2009s from Verget. Jean-Marie Guffens made only four wines under the Verget label--and no Chablis--from the 2010 vintage due to "administrative reasons."

Crushed rock and ginger apple aromas. Richer and sweeter than the old-vines Bougros but closed now, with a metallic minerality dominating apple and spice flavors. Best today on the impressively long finish. I never would have guessed that this was done entirely in barriques, 10% new.