2010 Chablis Vaudesir

Pure, cool minerality is at the heart of the 2010 Chablis Vaudesir. Introspective and reticent, the Vaudesir clearly needs time to fully emerge. White peaches, flowers, mint and crushed rocks are all layered into the vibrant, bright finish. There is plenty of energy and focus in the glass, yet the Vaudesir remains a bit closed today. In 2011, Billaud-Simon moved to oak aging for this wine. Tasting the 2010, it is easy to understand why. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bernard Billaud told me he views 2011 as a classic Chablis vintage, one of the few producers who holds that view. The growing season got off to an early start, with flowering that was three weeks ahead of schedule. The harvest began on September 10, as opposed to late September/early October, which is much more common. I tasted most of the 2011s from tank and/or barrel, except the Petit Chablis and Chablis, which were bottled in May 2012. Always eloquent, Billaud describes 2010 as a ‘grand millesime.’ Vintage 2010 at the domaine was characterized by a rainy summer with little heat. On average, yields were down 25%. Billaud bottled his 2010 grand crus in May 2012. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

(still in cuve): Pale green-yellow. Lovely purity and lift to the aromas of grapefruit and lime. Fat, sweet and surprisingly supple for grand cru but showing more texture than personality today; I don't find much nuance here. Turns a bit hard-edged, even austere, on the back end, finishing with a note of licorice. This will need at least a couple years in bottle to come into harmony.

The 2010 Chablis Vaudésir is the wine that most acutely demonstrates the personality of the vintage vis-à-visthe 2009 version. It is a strikingly pure wine laced with white peaches, lime and grapefruit, all of which meld together beautifully on the pointed finish. This is another brilliant effort.