2003 Chevalier Montrachet

Just 320 bottles made of this wine from the famous heatwave vintage, so just one barrel. Such a deep gold that one wondered whether it was suffering from premature oxidation but not a bit of it. At first it was so rich that it almost seemed sweet on palate entry. There was a hint of something akin to caramel, and candied flowers. But actually, there was sufficient freshness and it grew in the glass to provide sumptuous drinking. It was extremely complex and substantial; you would not want to drink it without food but it was a delight with a complex warm oyster dish. Truly gorgeous, though I wouldn't hang on to it for too much longer. Though on reflection, we were probably drinking one of a handful of bottles left in the world.... (JR)