2001 Volnay Santenots du Milieu

The excellent 2001 Volnay-Santenots stands as testimony to Bize-Leroy’s conscientious vineyard and cellar work. Given the hail storm that devastated Volnay’s premier crus in 2001, it is mind-boggling that a wine of this quality could be fashioned. Its blackberry aromas lead to a broad, medium-bodied character filled with plump dark fruits. It lacks the power, concentration, as well as punch of Leroy’s finest Santenots, and reveals some stemmy characteristics in the finish, yet this wine bastes the taster’s palate with impressive layers of blackberries. It should be consumed over the next 4 years. Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy liked both the 2000 and 2001 vintages, stating that she was “rather pleased with the 2001s as they will bring lots of joy to those who drink them young” and that the 2000s “are candied fruit, reduction of fruit, the essence of fruit.” Many Burgundians chose to bottle their 2001 early in order to “trap” the fruit in the bottle, but Bize-Leroy beat them all to the punch, having completed the bottling process by early September, 2002. Typically an early bottler, Mme. Bize-Leroy felt that the 2001s would lose their fruit to either oxidation or the required sulfuring if left in the barrel for a longer elevage. Overall, Domaine Leroy’s 2001s are a success, though many were found to reveal stemmy, woody tannin in their finishes. If this characteristic melts away quickly, my scores on those wines will appear overly conservative. Importer: Martine’s Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400