1991 Volnay Santenots du Milieu

As a Burgundy lover, I have a penchant for the 1991s, which were over-shadowed by the previous vintage. The 1991 Volnay Santenot has an attractive bouquet that does not possess the precocity of the 1990, but offers enticing scents of dried herb, mushroom and a drop of Hoi Sin. The palate is well-balanced with boysenberry jam on the entry. The tannins lend this 1991 good backbone and it boasts a lovely citrus edge that lends tension on the finish. Do not overlook this superb Volnay. Drink now-2022+. Tasted September 2013.

Beautifully rendered, rich and remarkably ripe fruit leads to lovely, detailed, full-bodied, nicely complex flavors underpinned by edgy tannins that are finally beginning to soften and round out on the medium length back end. To my taste this is now entirely ready and the essential personality of this wine remains rather robust, indeed even tautly muscular though in a balanced, sweet and solidly concentrated style. The '91 is perhaps not quite as elegant as it usually is though it's by no means rustic. Tasted several times with consistent results.