1999 Barolo Bussia Riserva 7 Anni

(from the old Riccardo Fenocchio property; Migliorini is grafting over the merlot vines in this holding to nebbiolo) Deep red. Marzipan and flowers on the nose, with strong smoky, nutty oak. Fat and mouthfilling but unevolved. Broad but quite dry, with youthfully aggressive, toothfurring tannins currently overshadowing the wine's fruit. Comes across as different in style from Migliorini's other Barolos - or is it simply going through an awkward phase following the bottling? This may well merit a higher score when it's released in 2004.