2005 Volnay 1er Cru

This is usually made up of two parcels only, including some Mitans, but in 2005 some Chanlins was included. Some meaty power although the nose is light and the overall impression on the palate is of a merely pretty wine for the moment. A hint of stewed rather than fresh fruit on the nose. Serviceable without being desperately exciting. (JR)

The Lafarage 2005 Volnay 1er Cru is pure Chanlin, and that will be the make-up of future vintages, as a newly acquired parcel of Mitans has allowed them to reach critical mass for a separate bottling. (They reasoned that there were too many customers familiar with the “Volnay 1er Cru” label to risk replacing it with “Chanlin”.) Tart red raspberry and currant, bitter-sweet floral perfume, and pink grapefruit zest in the nose lead to an overtly chalky, brightly-fruited, subtly floral and spicy palate presence. Like most of Lafarge’s wines, this certainly doesn’t lack for structure, but the tannins are fine and don’t get in the way of its infectiously juicy fresh fruit. Revisit it in 3-5 years. The entire Lafarge collection was predictably still in barrel when I visited in February, with even the generic cuvees due for assembly only in March. Speaking of generic bottlings, I don’t know of another domaine that has three of them, and I certainly doubt that there is one with three routinely worthy of attention even by those with the disposable income to afford premier crus. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

(only Chanlins, as the Mitans will be bottled on its own this year) Good deep red. Floral aromas of dark cherry, menthol and minerals. Quite suave and refined in the mouth but with very good cut giving the flavors a juicy quality. Finishes with some youthful toughness that will require at least seven or eight years of cellaring.