2006 Were Dreams, now just wine

The 2006 Dreams (mostly Chardonnay) is an oak-laden fruit bomb of little distinction. To be sure, the wine is well-made and technically correct, but it lacks the personality and character of the region’s finest wines. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Silvio Jermann has much more competition from his neighbors these days. One can’t help noticing that Jermann is increasingly being left behind by the area’s new generation of ambitious, quality-minded producers, something that was brought home to me quite clearly when I visited the region’s top estates a few months ago. Ironically for a producer famous for his whites, it is actually the reds that are now among the estate’s most interesting wines. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900