2004 San Leonardo
Market price
Buying options
Tasting notes
I’ve been following the 2004 San Leonardo for many years, as it’s a vintage that I chose to add to my own cellar. Just like each bottle I’ve opened in the past, this one is showing as a true classic. The bouquet is dark and alluring, pulling you closer to the glass, revealing rich blackberry and plums, contrasted with exotic spice, sage and peppery florals. It's graceful with cool-toned precision, yet also soothing and ripe, lifted by brisk acids. Saline-minerals add verve and a tactile feel. Concluding long, focused on lingering red and black fruits, tugging at the senses with youthful tannins, as purple-tinged florals slowly fade. It’s amazing to think that this is the result of a vintage that was difficult through the first half of the season. However, the 2004 was saved by ideal conditions midsummer through harvest. If you can find it, don’t hesitate to add some to your cellar.
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
To say that the 2004 growing year lacked surprises would be an untruth. The season began with two very rainy months in May and June, when temperatures were below the seasonal average, albeit not by very much. But then there was an incredible transformation from mid July on. The weather stabilised and rising temperatures enabled veraison and ripening to proceed in fine style. September and October enjoyed excellent day-night temperature fluctuations and the fruit was able to ripen marvellously well. The harvest began with the Merlot on 5 October and ended on 23 October when the Carmènere was picked. Half bottles: 5,009; bottles: 58,222, magnums: 3,003; double magnums: 219; imperials: 23; salmanazars: 24. Dark crimson with a blackish tinge. Riper nose than most. A sweet start and then the wine somehow gives the impression of having had stones macerated in it, but this vintage somehow has less real core and intensity than some others. (The first of the two bottles I tasted seemed a little jammy on the finish.) Minerally and somehow a bit less gloriously mellow than some. (JR)
Fully mature ruby with lots of fine sediment. Very cassis nose with fresh sweetness on the palate but relatively light. Delicate with only a trace of fine tannin left. (JR)
It's impossible not to fall in love with the 2004 San Leonardo. This may well be the greatest wine made by the estate (equal to the delightful 1990) thanks to the infinite, ever-shifting complexity on display. It's hard to know where to start: Bright fruit aromas segue to spice and leather and then segue to cola and balsam herb. Blue flower and button mushroom also make brief, but meaningful appearances. This iconic vintage started with a wet spring and moved forward to a dry, warm harvest period. Give the wine another ten years to find its footing. If you serve it in the near term, allow three hours for decanting.