2005 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes

Unbelievably, at this juncture in our tasting I was about to experience the first Perrot-Minot Grand Cru. Right. In fact, the 2005 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (from 60-year-old vines – the prime portion of the late Philippe Engel’s holdings, which Perrot-Minot just purchased) had an almost incredibly hard act to follow... but it managed! Riveting aromas of smoked meat, resin, high-toned herbal distillates, blackberry and black cherry liqueur, and roasted meats practically lock your elbow in place. When you finally tip the glass, the silken, creamy sensation is incredible, and a seamlessly rich alliance of ultra-fine tannin with fruit and meat remind you that at a molecular level, aroma and structure are the closest possible cousins. (They also reminded me to queue up my tape of the 1953 Engel Clos Vougeot from these vines – one of the greatest red Burgundies I have ever tasted.) This amazing, endlessly long wine should be worthy of at least 20 years in the cellar of anyone lucky enough to score a bottle. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.

(this included fruit from Engel's top old-vines parcel, which Perrot-Minot purchased in 2005) Deep red-ruby. Expressive aromas of black cherry, menthol, dark chocolate and wild herbs; like an essence of Clos Vougeot. Then silky-sweet and fat with fruit; lovely ripe acids intensify the flavors and give elegance to the wine. Seamless and creamy Clos Vougeot with compelling sweetness. Finishes with very suave tannins and superb building length. There's nothing rustic or even austere about this surprisingly opulent sample. Early hail in Engel's parcel of Clos Vougeot cut the ultimate crop level significantly.