1996 Chambolle Musigny Les Veroilles

This dark-colored, highly expressive wine has gorgeous floral, black raspberry, and cherry aromatics that lead to its masculine, dense, medium-to-full-bodied, and crunchy (croquant the French would say) personality. This fresh, wild blueberry and candied cherry-filled wine has a long, and focused finish. Projected maturity: 2002-2007. Ghislaine Barthod was "charmed by this vintage, it has purity of fruit, raspberries mostly, and elegance." She informed me that she had dropped grapes a month or so before the harvest to reduce yields to 42 hectoliters/hectare. Barthod has enlarged her formerly-cramped cellar, and installed an elevator to assist her in making her delicious Chambolles. Since her wines are all produced with the same techniques, including 25% new oak, tasting at this domaine represents a lesson in this village's terroirs. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.

Perfumed aromas of dark berries, wildflowers and violets. Lovely sweetness in the mouth. Vibrant, fresh and delineated, but rounder than usual for this cru. Subtle hint of maraschino cherry on the finish. Showing very well today.