2005 Chambolle Musigny Les Veroilles

The Clair 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles (from a terraced site above Bonnes Mares) definitely subscribes to the “if it bleeds, it leads” school of Chambolle advocacy. Behind the overtly carnal aspects of this wine come fresh blackberry, tart cranberry, herbs and flowers. (Indeed, I am reminded of butchering a grass- and flower-fed spring lamb.) Bright, fresh, sappy, a bit brash in the mouth, this brings a lot of energy to its finish, resulting in a long, savory amalgam of meat, herbs, flowers and bitter-sweet, sappy fruit. This will need a few years in the bottle to settle down. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802