2010 Chablis

Far from an easygoing entry-level wine, the 2010 Chablis is very tight at this stage. Citrus, flowers and crushed rocks are layered into the taut, steely finish. The 2010 really needs time to settle down, but it appears to have excellent potential. Anticipated maturity: 2013. Bernard Billaud told me he views 2011 as a classic Chablis vintage, one of the few producers who holds that view. The growing season got off to an early start, with flowering that was three weeks ahead of schedule. The harvest began on September 10, as opposed to late September/early October, which is much more common. I tasted most of the 2011s from tank and/or barrel, except the Petit Chablis and Chablis, which were bottled in May 2012. Always eloquent, Billaud describes 2010 as a ‘grand millesime.’ Vintage 2010 at the domaine was characterized by a rainy summer with little heat. On average, yields were down 25%. Billaud bottled his 2010 grand crus in May 2012. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Bright, pale green-yellow. Lemon and a metallic minerality on the fresh nose. Lemony, light, juicy and quite dry, with very good tension and lift. Finishes with solid depth and length.

Pale, green-tinged color. White peach and lime on the brisk nose. Juicier and fruitier than the comparatively skinny Petit Chablis, but still with a taut quality to its flavors of white peach and powdered stone. Edgy and unyielding today, but should make a classic Chablis villages .