1991 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Everyone I know who has met proprietor Gian Franco Soldera has the same impression - the man is an uncompromising perfectionist who makes great wines, but seems not to want to sell them to anybody on planet Earth unless they meet his "qualifications." From his 16-acre Case Basse vineyard (planted in 1973), Soldera produces three wines - a vino da tavola called Intistieti, and two Brunellos, with the Riserva being made only in top years. The wines are aged in large Slavonian oak foudres for 4-5+ years, before being bottled without any fining or filtration. Readers may remember my enthusiastic notes on the two cuvees of 1990 Brunello. In 1991, only a Riserva was made. It is a magnificent Brunello that gets my nod as the wine of the vintage. The wine reveals a dark ruby color with some amber at the edge. An extraordinary nose offers up provocative aromas of grilled meats, sweet black-cherries, Asian spices, balsamic vinegar, and smoke. The wine exhibits superb richness, incredibly sweet, pure fruit, full body, and layers of depth. The finish easily lasts for 35-40 seconds. This is a terrific, remarkable, compellingly complex, already delicious Brunello that promises to age well for 10-15+ years. Only the price is painful.||A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 Wine Advocate.August, 1997