1997 Romanee Conti

The 1997 Romanee-Conti reveals a saturated dark ruby color as well as a mouth-watering nose of leather, juniper berries, cherries, and spices. On the palate, it marvelously combines the powerful, ripe fruit characteristic of the vintage with magnificent delineation and elegance. This soy sauce, licorice, flower, as well as blackberry flavored wine is dense and concentrated, yet lace-like and gloriously precise. It stands, as is expected given its rarity, price, and reputation, as one of the stars of the vintage. Projected maturity: 2001-2012+. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel (707) 963-9661.

An intensely floral nose that is surprisingly reserved, particularly for a vintage that in many cases has already peaked, also evidence notes of spice and dried rose petal and significantly, there is no sign of surmaturité or the obverse case of undue greenness. The firm structure underpinning the ripe medium weight flavors remains well integrated and there is good volume if not the sheer depth of the finest vintages. In sum, a deceptively graceful wine that is still on its way up. Multiple, and consistent, notes. Allen Meadows, Burghound Jan01,2008