2005 Volnay Caillerets

The 2005 Volnay Caillerets offers scents and flavors of salted plum and smoked meat, the bright, lithe palate impression predictable at this address, and a salty, chalky back end. There is however not the sweetness of fruit exhibited by the other Voillot Volnays, nor as yet, the complexity one would expect of this site. Charlot says the vines are of a rather high-yielding, big-berried clone, compensated for (at least in part) by the very stony, chalky surface of this upper part of Caillerets. Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address! The wines had very recently been assembled (and in three instances bottled) when I tasted. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($26.00;84), 2005 Pommard ($50.00;86), Voillot’s 2005 Beaune Coucherias ($60.00;85-87+?), 2005 Pommard Clos Micot ($85.00;85-86). Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218