2009 Volnay Caillerets

The 2009 Volnay Caillerets is one of the subtler polished wines in this lineup. A model of weightless elegance, it presents hints of rose petals, sweet red cherries, licorice and minerals, all wrapped up in a sensual package that is impossible to resist. The wine’s understated finesse and inner sense of energy are both remarkable. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. I tasted the 2009s from D’Angerville twice recently, once at the winery in December 2011 and a second time in my office in New York. The Volnay, Volnay 1er and Volnay Champans were all less impressive than the first time I tasted those wines, just after botting. Time will tell if the wines are going through a closed phase today, or if I overrated them the first time around. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

(from vines planted in 1998 and 2000) Bright deep red with ruby highlights. Black cherry and licorice on the nose. Dense and lively; not especially deep but racy, fine-grained and easygoing, and showing a sneaky intensity. Ultimately lush, sweet and seamless wine with suave tannins and surprising length. This will give early pleasure.

The 2009 Volnay Caillerets is one of the subtler polished wines in this lineup. A model of weightless elegance, it presents hints of rose petals, sweet red cherries, licorice and minerals, all wrapped up in a sensual package that is impossible to resist. The wine’s understated finesse and inner sense of energy are both remarkable. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. ||I tasted the 2009s from D’Angerville twice recently, once at the winery in December 2011 and a second time in my office in New York. The Volnay, Volnay 1er and Volnay Champans were all less impressive than the first time I tasted those wines, just after botting. Time will tell if the wines are going through a closed phase today, or if I overrated them the first time around. eRobertParker.com.April, 2012