2010 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, which occupies similar elevation to the Grands Ruchottes, is more reticent on the nose and does not display the verve of the Grands Ruchottes, at least at this moment. The palate is crisp and vibrant on the entry with touches of lemon peel, walnut and a hint of dried orange peel toward the finish. It would need to show a little more breeding on the finish to merit a higher appraisal, but this is a fine Caillerets. Drink now-2022. This was the first time I had been back to Louis Jadot’s expansive winery on the northern outskirts of Beaune since their memorable 150th anniversary tasting back in 2008. As I quipped in the previous issue, Jacques Lardiere was then talking about his imminent retirement that seemed to never come. But on this occasion, there was new winemaker Frederic Barnier there to greet me. He has large shoes to fill but he seems up to the task of steering this important Burgundy name to a new chapter, having worked alongside Jacques for a couple of years. “At the beginning, we were not so confident about the whites,” he explained in reference to his 2011s, “but it has been a nice surprise. The dry spring of 2011 affected the level of ripeness but it has lent freshness, but with low acidity.” We did not have time to taste the entire portfolio of over 80 crus, but instead took a sample of 20 white and reds from both the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Importer: Kobrand, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

Bright, light yellow. Perfumed aromas of pear, grapefruit and white flowers, plus a whiff of tobacco. Suave, fine-grained and light on its feet, with bright acidity giving definition to the lightly leafy flavors of lemon and blond tobacco. Shows an element of medicinal herbs from start to long finish.

Unexpectedly deep gold. Lifted nose. Muscular and very lively. Spreads across the palate. Not super delicate but very competent. Finished bone dry. Long. (JR)