2009 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret comes across as a bit richer and deeper than the Chaumees. The fruit tends towards apricots and peaches in this supple, textured white. Hints of sweet spices from the oak and butter add complexity to the incisive, mineral-drenched finish. This could use another few years in bottle.

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret comes across as a bit richer and deeper than the Chaumees. The fruit tends towards apricots and peaches in this supple, textured white. Hints of sweet spices from the oak and butter add complexity to the incisive, mineral-drenched finish. This could use another few years in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Vincent Girardin is among the producers who have made the most dramatic changes in response to the issue of premature oxidation. Girardin has increased the amount of time his wines spend on their lees, has lowered new oak, has eliminated batonnage and has basically re-built his entire approach from the bottom up, which I have to say, is quite impressive. The 2009s were harvested beginning on September 15, with natural alcohols in the 12.5-13% range. The wines were bottled between mid-March and mid-May 2011. Today the 2009s are quite fresh and still showing some of the effects of their recent bottling. It is safe to say the wines Girardin is making today are quite different from those of the past. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Pale, bright yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of peach and clove. A step up in intensity on the palate from the Saint-Aubin, displaying good leesy depth to its rich, floral, stony fruit. Supple in the middle palate but still a bit youthfully aggressive. Finishes with good length and grip. (The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes was sulfited the week before my visit and was in a disorganized state.)