2011 Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett

The 2011 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett displays a yeasty post-fermentative shroud and hint of milkiness on the palate, both of which aspects rendered Schloss Lieser’s generic Kabinett disappointing. But the sheer delicacy of this subtly satiny Juffer, the purely juicy apple, Persian melon, lime and honeydew that emerge from it mid-palate, and its fine sense of stony finishing underpinnings combine for fascinating as well as succulent appeal. Plan to enjoy it through at least 2022. Thomas Haag didn’t begin harvesting until October 3 – immediately before which, he says, it was too hot – and then picked for 23 straight days. He has every reason to complement the ripe yet filigree results, a description that, happily, applies almost as much to his dry as to his residually sweet bottlings. Except for his two Grosse Gewachs – bottled in May – and a Niederberg Helden T.B.A. that was still fermenting as of last autumn, all of Thomas Haag’s 2011s were bottled already in March and April following harvest. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463