2007 Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett

Higher residual sweetness brings out musk melon, nectarine, and ripe pear on the nose and palate of the Fritz Haag 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, as well as a honeyed cast. Grapefruit acids lend refreshment in what is otherwise a rather softly-textured, soothing finish. While polished and classy – and certainly capable of 15 or more years’ aging – this misses the complexity and invigoration as well as the versatility at table of the feinberb version. This bottling, incidentally, will probably be labeled next year simply as “Brauneberger Kabinett,” as the Haags want to simplify their labeling, as well as leave open the option of incorporating some fruit from their “pre-harvest” thinning of the Juffer-Sonnenuhr. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have done it again, scoring consistent and sensational success throughout their range. And if 2007 cannot – like 2006 – be compared with any iconic vintage of yore (in 2006’s case, 1953) so much the more exciting. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.

Slightly funky note on the nose. Straightforward and funky but not that charming. A little bit hard. Lots of lemon sherbet character. Fresh and zingy. Though not desperately long. (JR)