2004 Chablis Les Clos

The star of this extraordinary line-up is Domaine William Fevre’s show-stopping 2004 Chablis Les Clos (domaine). Its creamed stone aromatics are followed by a bold, muscular, powerful character. Medium to full-bodied and ample, it explodes on the palate, unleashing waves of iodine-laced minerals, white fruits, and liquefied rocks. This masculine counterpart to the Les Preuses is suave, seamless, and immensely concentrated. Projected maturity: 2008-2017. Though it is difficult to fathom, Fevre’s 2005 Chablis Les Clos, tasted at an unbelievably young age, was even bigger, denser, and more powerful! Bravo! Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

Not as immediately appealing as many lesser wines. Big, round and powerful. So big it disguises the acidity and minerality. Though doubtless in 20 years it’ll look great. (JR)

Utterly primary aromas of silex, mint, quinine and ginger, lifted by floral perfume. Sweet, broad, dense and very young; fat but not at all heavy, with a suggestion of lactic, leesy reduction. Quite supple, even gentle, for this great grand cru. Very long, slow-mounting finish coats the palate with dusty stone. Today the huge Valmur is almost more focused and classic.