2010 Chablis Les Clos

The 2010 Chablis Les Clos wafts across the palate with the most refined aromas and flavors imaginable. Anise, dried pears, roses, slate, flowers and Mirabelle plums take shape in the glass. There is an exotic quality in the aromas, along with the distinct red fruit flavors that give the Clos much of its unique, engaging personality. In 2010, the Clos is totally beguiling. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Bernard Billaud told me he views 2011 as a classic Chablis vintage, one of the few producers who holds that view. The growing season got off to an early start, with flowering that was three weeks ahead of schedule. The harvest began on September 10, as opposed to late September/early October, which is much more common. I tasted most of the 2011s from tank and/or barrel, except the Petit Chablis and Chablis, which were bottled in May 2012. Always eloquent, Billaud describes 2010 as a ‘grand millesime.’ Vintage 2010 at the domaine was characterized by a rainy summer with little heat. On average, yields were down 25%. Billaud bottled his 2010 grand crus in May 2012. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

(the yield here was half of a normal crop, according to Billaud; aged 20% in old futs, the rest in stainless steel): Bright pale yellow. White nectarine, tangerine and smoky minerality on the nose. Silky and dense on entry, then precise and penetrating in the middle palate, with terrific verve to the pineapple and crushed rock flavors. Superb fruit intensity here, and almost surprisingly pliant in texture. The very long, rising, mineral-rich finish really titillates the taste buds. An outstanding example of this great grand cru vineyard.

Introvert. Pretty uncommunicative at this stage. Brooding. Minerals and citrus. (JR)