2006 Chablis Les Clos
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Tasting notes
Recently filtered in preparation for bottling, the Laroche 2006 Chablis Les Clos displays ravishing aromas of honeysuckle, quince, and herbal essences. A caressing texture, juicy generosity, and wafting sweet floral perfume make this an instant charmer, and it lingers very convincingly. Surprisingly, there is little about this wine that I feel compelled to call mineral. But I suspect this will have much more to show with time in bottle and could be cellared successfully for 10-12 years. The superb 2005 exhibits a bit more brightness, grip, and layering of flavors. Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye and proprietor Michel Laroche – who export 85% of their wines, and were Burgundy’s pioneers (along with Verget) in utilizing screw cap closures – are dedicated to the proposition that Chablis can be seductive and sensual while remaining true to its terroir, and they have proven this in bottle with their outstanding 2005 and 2006 collections. Importer: Remy-Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2244
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Pale yellow-gold color. Dried fruits and wet stone on the nose. Large-scaled, rich and dry; the most voluminous of these 2006s, but with very brisk lemon and lime flavors dominating. At once generous and masculine, this rather powerful wine should offer serious aging potential (De la Bourdonnaye feels it will be best between 2010 and 2025). Finishes brisk, pungently stony and very long, with a bit of sexy oak spice still to be integrated.
Very closed nose. Very good texture on the palate. Very firm, very chewy. Not desperately long. (JR)
Pale color with a bit of green. Highly aromatic but subtle nose offers lime, mint, minerals and nutmeg. Dense, suave and classically dry; supple but sappy. This conveys an impression of stony austerity but is ultimately more tender and fruit-driven than the spicier '05. Finishes very long and pure, with a captivating amalgam of fruits, brown spices and minerals. (Bourdonnaye was not willing to show the Blanchots, as he had not yet made the final blend.)