2001 Barolo Ca'Mia

The 2001 Barolo Ca’ Mia literally explodes from the glass. It, too, is very young. The Ca’ Mia remains a bit of a brute, reflecting its Serralunga origins. I don’t quite find the finesse of some of the other Brovia offerings, but there is no shortage of richness and sheer muscle. Hints of tar, leather, plums and licorice develop gradually in the glass, but this remains a reticent, inward wine in need of further cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Brovia’s 2001 Baroli are stunning. Such beauty. Such grace. It’s all there in these splendid, handcrafted wines. Vinification and aging are very much done along traditional lines, although Brovia prefers French rather than Slovenian oak for their casks. Readers who own these wines are going to be very, very happy. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Readers who enjoy the more imposing wines of Serralunga will not want to miss the terrific 2001 Barolo Ca' Mia. It displays a dark translucent ruby dark and balsamic nose dominated by notes of tar and licorice. As this brooding, massive Barolo sits in the glass it reluctantly yields sensations of dense, sweet dark fruit that coat the palate with superb persistence and length. I fear this won't be ready until age 10-12, although even that estimate may be conservative, and it should be the longest lived of these Barolos. Made from the Voghera and Brea vineyards in Serralunga.

Good deep bright red. Captivating, highly nuanced nose offers red cherry, gunflint, spices, minerals and rose petal; calls to mind a great young Burgundy Rich, sweet, lush and mouthfilling, with complex flavors of strawberry, cherry, camphor and mint. Wonderfully vibrant, juicy wine with superb intensity and definition. Finishes very long and fruit-driven, with tannins that are firm but not hard. A superb Barolo that should be at its best between 2010 and 2018.