1990 Barolo Rocche
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Tasting notes
I had the fascinating opportunity to taste back in time to the 1990 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia. Winemaker Alex Sanchez started at Brovia in 2000, so this wine was considerably before his time. The wine opens to a dark color and consistency with garnet and amber highlights. The bouquet is beautifully redolent of licorice, balsam herb, spice and dried flowers. There is a slight note of oxidation, but it adds to the wine's overall complexity and aged personality. Mineral notes and campfire ash also appear at the back with candied fruit and exotic spice. Barolo Rocche dei Brovia is near the end of its optimal drinking window and could begin to decline at a faster rate.
Critic scores
Average Score
Robert Parker
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 1990 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia needs quite a bit of air to open up. Sweet, layered and deeply expressive, the 1990 is an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Licorice, spices, dried cherries, orange peel and star anise are all laced together in a pretty, tertiary Barolo that has reached its peak. Well-stored bottles will hold on for a few more years, but I wouldn't push my luck too far. The 1990 will appeal most to readers who enjoy fully mature Barolos.
The 1990 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia is a dark, sensual wine laced with plums, prunes and soft balsamic nuances that swirl around in the glass. The rich, exotic style captures the essence of the hot year, yet this remains a decidedly structured and angular wine relative to more recent vintages. Still, the wine gains lovely volume, richness and depth with time in the glass. The 1990 Barolo Rocche is an excellent choice for drinking today, and I wouldn't wait too much longer as the tannins will eventually dominate over the fruit.
The 1990 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia is a dark, sensual wine laced with plums, prunes and soft balsamic nuances that swirl around in the glass. The rich, exotic style captures the essence of the hot year, yet this remains a decidedly structured and angular wine relative to more recent vintages. Still, the wine gains lovely volume, richness and depth with time in the glass. The 1990 Barolo Rocche is an excellent choice for drinking today, and I wouldn’t wait too much longer as the tannins will eventually dominate over the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. The Brovia family purchased their holdings in the Rocche vineyard in 1968. Their 1989 and 1990 Barolos from that site are drinking beautifully today although they need to be enjoyed over the coming years as they are not immortal. Stylistically, the wines speak quite eloquently to the nature of both vintages, but they are decidedly more angular and firm than the Barolos the estate is making today. At the time, Brovia aged their Barolos in Slavonian oak casks rather than the French oak casks employed today. History buffs will want to note that Brovia’s first vintages for their Barolo Garblet Sue’, Barolo Villero and Barolo Ca’ Mia are 1985, 1991 and 1995 respectively. Readers will have a hard time finding a kinder family in Piedmont than the Brovias, so it is especially nice to see the significant strides in quality the estate has made in recent years.