2006 Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques
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Tasting notes
The Mortet 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques invokes ripe, bitter-sweet mulberry wreathed in wood smoke, its low-toned suggestions of roasted, charred meats and wet stone making for a deep if somewhat austere impression. The finesse of the tannins here is noteworthy and the palate-staining finish entices and intrigues you into the next sip without a moment's pause to remove any tiny splinters or assuage finishing roughness. In fact, the personality of this Lavaux is remarkably similar to that of its 2005 counterpart, if with less sheer intensity and considerably less complexity. I would recommend granting it at least 3-4 years' stay of uncorking, and then plan to savor it over the following half dozen or so. For his first entirely solo vintage, Arnaud Mortet was saddled with a load of challenges, most notably the legacy of hail in so many of his vineyards. His reaction was to back off on extraction and new wood, trends which he seems inclined to continue pursuing even in less tricky vintages. He opines that the "acid structure" of his 2006s – which are also amply endowed with largely fine-grained tannins – will help them age well. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Notably dark, even dark brownish. Very pale rim. Vague hint of animal fur on the nose. Sweet and simple. Mucked about with rather than pure expression of fruit. [Clive Coates says Michel Rolland must have made this!] (JR)
Bright, deep red. Complex nose melds crushed berries, flowers, minerals and a whiff of game. Supple, sweet and oaky, with bright acidity framing the berry, coffee and cola flavors. This young wine has a high pitch and a firm spine, but comes across as quite pliant today, perhaps due to its sexy oak component.
Good red-ruby. Currant, black raspberry, iron and coffee on the nose. Supple, sweet and lightly gamey. Shows less thrust in the mid-palate than the Champeaux but broadens out nicely on the back end, finishing with excellent length and a lingering note of torrefaction.
About the producer
This estate, today with Arnaud Mortet at the helm, makes some of Gevrey-Chambertin’s finest wines. Working with 16 hectares, as well as a few négociant parcels, this property makes perfumed and chiselled Pinot Noir.