2005 Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant, highly nuanced nose combines blueberry, blackberry, minerals and a subtle gamey note, along with a suggestion of crystallized fruit. Wonderfully silky and sweet in the mouth, with excellent definition to the black fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Ripe acids give this wine plenty of verve. "This was good since the start," noted Dugat.

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques from Dugat-Py is a profound bottle of wine that is just beginning to open up after over a decade of hibernation, blossoming in the glass with a complex bouquet of red-black fruit, grilled meat, summer truffle, dried rose petal and wood smoke. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with incredible depth and concentration, its substantial chassis of fine tannin enrobed in a wonderfully vibrant core of fruit. Served next to the Domaine's 2005 Charmes-Chambertin, the Lavaux more than held its own, displaying greater seriousness and reserve in contrast to the Charmes' expansive exuberance. Lavaux Saint-Jacques combines a south-facing exposition with a cool mesoclimate, and in 2005 that has made for a magical combination. Fermented with 100% whole cluster and matured in 100% new oak. Jan 2018, www.robertparker.com