2004 Bellevue Mondotte

A spectacular garagiste effort from a five-acre, 45-year-old vineyard (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon), the 2004 Bellevue Mondotte was fashioned from yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare. The result is an opaque purple-colored wine of provocative richness and intensity with an extraordinarily thick, juicy style, and unbridled amounts of creme de cassis, black cherry liqueur, a structured minerality, and sexy, toasty new oak. This full-bodied, powerful, extravagant, fascinating St.-Emilion is nearly over the top. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, and tipping the scales at nearly 14% natural alcohol, it should drink well for 20-25 years.

Bright red-ruby. Brooding, primary aromas of black fruits, licorice and leather, with a hint of espresso. Juicy and tightly wound, with somewhat bound-up flavors of black cherry and licorice. Less fleshy and ripe than the Pavie-Decesse that preceded it; gives the impression of being more "worked." Not an easy style. Finishes with slightly drying tannins.

Saturated bright ruby. Captivating aromas of black cherry, minerals, licorice and iron. Sweet and concentrated but a bit less delineated and distinguished than the '04 Pavie-Decesse that preceded it. This has strong fruit but a bit less sweetness and flavor interest. Finishes with ripe, dusty tannins and lingering notes of black cherry and bitter chocolate.