2004 Condrieu La Doriane

Looking back at what was a truly profound vintage for Condrieu, both of Guigal’s cuvees of 2004 are still going strong, and still revealing wonderful aromatics and flavor intensity. No doubt this vintage, which also had high acidity, much like 2005, has added a dimension of limited longevity to Condrieu that it rarely possesses. Almost as good as the magnificent 2005, the 2004 Condrieu La Doriane is showing even better this year than it did last. This wine, which is 100% barrel-fermented and aged on its lees with routine batonnage, has exceptionally intense notes of litchi, almonds, marzipan, and honeyed tropical fruits in a full-bodied, unctuous style that is buttressed by tremendous acidity. This is an amazing example of Condrieu year in and year out. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Interesting to taste this bottled wine after tasting the two 2005 ingredients from cask. You can smell the mineral portion. Deeply nutty-flavoured but not for the very long term. Very full. (JR)

(the fruit comes from Chatillon and the granitic Colombier, sites that Guigal says contribute aromas and structure, respectively; aged in all new barriques Bright, pale gold color. Ripe and marrowy/meaty on the nose, with strong notes of peach melba, poached pear, licorice and dried rose. Dense and weighty, with strong peach flavors building and deepening, and a pronounced mineral quality emerging on the finish. A high-extract, luscious Condrieu with impressive structure and precision.