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Even more intense than the 2003, the 2002 Exile is a superb example of this fabulous vintage in Barossa. Black/purple-colored with sensational purity, a blackberry liqueur, cassis intensity, and beautifully integrated wood, alcohol, and tannin, this large yet brilliantly balanced effort can be drunk now, but promises to age effortlessly for 10-15 years. Importer: Commonwealth Wines & Spirits, Mansfield, MA; tel. (508) 261-9300
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Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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(a blend of 75% shiraz, 20% mourvedre and 5% grenache; like the Emigre, this is 15.5% alcohol and comes from a crop level of barely a ton an acre) Bright medium ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black cherry, chocolate, mocha and woodsmoke. Thick, superconcentrated and dense; fatter than the Emigre but less vibrant, with lower-toned, somewhat saline flavors of berries, chocolate, and nut skin. Finishes thick, nutty and very long, with building tannins. A more massive wine than the Emigre, but I preferred the Emigre. This is the first release for both of these wines, which are made using French methods, and French oak, by Jonathan Maltus (owner of Teyssier, Laforge and Le Dome) and his team from Saint-Emilion.