2005 Gevrey Chambertin Cuvee de l'Abeille
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Tasting notes
From a site near the route nationale, Ponsot’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee de l’Abeille offers aromas of black raspberry and brown spices; comes onto the palate with broad richness, its fruit complimented by mineral salt and charred meat flavors; and finishes with surprisingly subtle, low-toned beefy meatiness and wet stone minerality rather than simply obvious sweet fruit. This is remarkably intense for village wine. Laurent Ponsot (like his father) vinifies to the beat of a different drummer, whether it is in his employment of a basket press from 1945, his reliance on exclusively (truly) old barrels, his aggressive pigeage, or his virtual refusal (since 1988) to sulfur the wines (nitrogen and CO2 are administered at bottling). The results are as distinctive as the methods, but also profoundly impressive and proven to age magnificently. Certainly one has to adjust to a background level of chocolate and that lack of a certain “pep” that is otherwise conveyed, MSG-wise, to wines given a normal quota of sulfur during their elevage. But after a few samples – and especially when I re-tasted these wines “cold” at 7:00 A.M. – I was fully attuned to their virtues. The alcohols in 2005 are as high as 15%, but you do not notice it, even when told. Asked when he intends to bottle, Ponsot replies “I don’t know. Maybe one or two in the Spring, maybe before the harvest, maybe afterward.” Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(from a parcel located just under La Chapelle) Good ruby-red, not quite as dark as the Cuvee des Grives. Liqueur-like black raspberry on the nose, with hints of smoke and meat. Rich, ripe and fruit-driven, with hints of flowers and minerals. Finishes with very fine tannins and excellent length.
From a site near the route nationale, Ponsot’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee de l’Abeille offers aromas of black raspberry and brown spices; comes onto the palate with broad richness, its fruit complimented by mineral salt and charred meat flavors; and finishes with surprisingly subtle, low-toned beefy meatiness and wet stone minerality rather than simply obvious sweet fruit. This is remarkably intense for village wine. Apr 2007, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
Domaine Ponsot is one of the most well-known estates in the Côte de Nuits, famed for owning three of the original four hectares of the Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. The legendary domaine also produces another nine Grand Cru cuvées.