2008 Barolo Bussia

The 2008 Barolo Bussia is striking. Layers of super-ripe dark fruit, violets, minerals, menthol and spices flow from the glass. The Bussia is deep, textured and dazzling. Spiced, mentholated notes develop in the glass, lending a distinctly balsamic air to the Bussia. The 2008 boasts superb depth through to the dazzling finish.

The 2008 Barolo Bussia Selezione Speciale is an example of the Parusso way of thinking taken to the max. The wine spent 6 months in 100% new oak barrels, prior to being moved into a second set of new 100% barrels to finish its elevage. Dark plums, mocha, spices, minerals and licorice emerge over time, but the wine remains indelibly shaped by French oak. There is more than enough fruit to stand up to the barrels, but this is a style I find lacking in excitement. The Bussia character has been flattened – though not entirely – by the oak. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. Marco Parusso is one of the most adventurous producers in Piemonte. Never content, Parusso is willing to take more risks in the pursuit of greatness than the vast majority of his colleagues. A visit here is always fascinating because so many things are in motion. In recent years, Parusso’s biggest experiments have been with whole cluster fermentation, which is common in Burgundy, but rarely seen in Piemonte. The 2008 harvest was one of the latest on record. The fruit was brought in between October 15 and the end of the month. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

Good deep red. Ripe nose smells like a chocolate truffle. Fat, sweet and thick; verging on overripeness. Here, too, the wine's oak element overwhelms the nebbiolo perfume and any sense of terroir. Finishes with building tannins and a heavy load of sweet oak. In a rather international style.