2009 Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta

Conterno's 2009 Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta is a pretty, accessible wine laced with sweet red berries, crushed flowers and mint. The 2009 shows a vineyard still in the process of being converted to high-quality farming, and perhaps some slight damage from the previous year's hail storms, as it is a delicate, somewhat fragile wine. Roberto Conterno gave the 2009 three years in cask, meaning the 2009 could have been bottled as Barolo, but Conterno wanted to wait for a more important vintage for his debut Barolo from this site. He got it one year later in 2010.

Conterno’s 2009 Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta is a pretty, accessible wine laced with sweet red berries, crushed flowers and mint. The 2009 shows a vineyard still in the process of being converted to high-quality farming, and perhaps some slight damage from the previous year’s hail storms, as it is a delicate, somewhat fragile wine. Roberto Conterno gave the 2009 three years in cask, meaning the 2009 could have been bottled as Barolo, but Conterno wanted to wait for a more important vintage for his debut Barolo from this site. He got it one year later in 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. A stop at this historic cellar in the center of Monforte is always fascinating, as no one keeps Barolo longer in cask than Roberto Conterno, giving the visitor a chance to taste numerous wines all in various stages of their maturation. If forced to pick a favorite recent vintage, I would vote for 2010, a year in which all of the wines are fabulous. Next would be 2008 and 2006, two super-classic years. Robero Conterno is by far the most enlightened of the traditional producers in Barolo. I don’t think too many producers taste their wines as often as Roberto Conterno does, but what really separates Conterno from the overwhelming majority of his peers is his intense intellectual curiosity about the world’s great wines. The Conterno wines remain traditional in interpretation, but they are also clearly the work of a winemaker living in his time and not the past. This set of new releases is full of highlights, but the Barbera from Conterno’s Cerretta vineyard is particularly of note because it is the most improved wine in the lineup. When Conterno purchased this plot in 2008, he told me it would take 2-3 years to get the vineyard into top shape. When I asked him recently where he was in that process, the answer was, “Ninety percent.” Readers should note that the two flagship Baroli, Cascina Francia and Monfortino, were especially shut down every time I tasted them this past summer. Conterno bottled a month earlier than normal this year, and I think that is the reason the wines were particularly impenetrable. Readers may also want to take a look at my previous reviews, based on barrel samples, for greater context. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2009 Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta is round, sweet and inviting. Dark red fruit, licorice, sweet herbs and tar are woven together in this graceful, long Nebbiolo. The 2009 will see three full years in cask, but will be bottled as Langhe Nebbiolo. Beginning in 2010 Conterno plans to release the Cerretta as Barolo.