2010 Barbaresco Rabaja

Bruno Rocca's 2010 Barbaresco Rabajà is quite closed in on itself, which is hardly surprising given the personality of this state. Intense veins of chalk support an exciting, beguiling melange of white truffle, white pepper, leather, plum and espresso. Rabajà is one of the rare sites in Piedmont that can give wines extraordinary aromatic complexity, and the 2010 is a perfect example of that. The 2010 impresses for its nuance and personality, but it needs at least a few years in bottle to fully blossom. With time in the glass, the wine opens up beautifully, but the best is still to come.

Mid ruby beginning to mature. Quite pronounced, loose-knit cherry and savoury too. Accessible ripe fruit palate with density and length, and surprisingly accessible. Soft vanilla hints and bitter tannic muscle on the finish. Long and quite intense if not the most restraint. (WS)

As if the Barbaresco Coparossa weren’t enough, Bruno’s 2010 Barbaresco Rabaja simply steals the show. Sheer aromatic generosity, so clear and sharp, bursts from the glass. Once your nose settles in, it is rewarded with a veritable parade of floral, spice and bright berry aromas. This unstoppable wine shows the highest levels of class and elegance. This is one bottle seriously worth putting aside. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035. Bruno Rocca is one of the protagonists of the so-called Rabaja renaissance. A handful of producers in Barbaresco have banded together to draw attention to this historic vineyard just meters below the town’s main street. Bruno’s wines are always focused and sharp. Their beautiful qualities are reflected in the etched elegance of the bird feather drawings that adorn his beautifully designed labels. Various American Importers, including: Ipo Wine, New York, NY; tel. (917) 470-4747; Dionysus Import, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007; Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (831) 689-9080