2006 Chablis Reserve de l'Obedience
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Tasting notes
From selected parcels or lots of Blanchot and three-quarters raised in barriques of various ages, the 2006 Chablis Reserve de l’Obediencerie is the latest in a line begun in 1991, and while far and away the most expensive in Laroche’s line-up, I find it far from the most delicious or convincing (an impression strengthened by the performance of the 2005 on this same occasion). Prior to filtration, it certainly shared the opulence and floral perfume of the “regular” Blanchot (and its barrel component is better-integrated and the wine clearer than the corresponding 2005) but it lacks the fineness of the hints of minerality. Broadly rich and plush, it will no doubt appeal to some tasters more than it did to me, and there is no denying this is impressive in its way. I lack the experience as yet to judge its age-worthiness. Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye and proprietor Michel Laroche – who export 85% of their wines, and were Burgundy’s pioneers (along with Verget) in utilizing screw cap closures – are dedicated to the proposition that Chablis can be seductive and sensual while remaining true to its terroir, and they have proven this in bottle with their outstanding 2005 and 2006 collections. Importer: Remy-Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2244
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(done in 75% oak) Bright yellow. Rich, almost exotic aromas of ripe peach, coconut, ginger and minerals, all lifted by a caramel spice quality. Plush-verging-on-oily on the palate, with highly complex stone fruit, floral and mineral flavors accented by subtle vanillin oak. Thick, very long, richly fruity grand cru Chablis, representing a selection of the best lots from Laroche's old vines in Blanchots.
Special bottling made up of the 10% best Blanchots wine. Closed nose. Very mineral. Tight and impressive. Should be great for the long-term. Just starting to open up, firm and satisfying. (JR)
(90% aged in oak, mostly one- and two-year-old barrels; this is a selection of the best lots from old vines in the lower portion of Laroche's Blanchots holding) Very ripe aromas of nectarine, yellow peach and spicy oak, with a suggestion of peach skin. Fat and lush but a bit youthfully ungiving now, despite the richness of its peach and spice flavors. Very fine-grained and classically dry but with a texture that's more chardonnay than Chablis. But this recently assembled wine needs time for its components to harmonize. (A retaste of the 2005 Clos and Reserve de l'Obedience suggested that these wines are at least as impressive as my scores last year indicated, and the Reserve de l'Obedience did come across as more integrated than the 2006 with another year of development.)