2007 Bourgogne Blanc

Subtle nuttiness and milled grain characterize Jobard’s white 2007 Bourgogne, which exhibits a surprising degree of creaminess on the palate for its appellation in this vintage. Lime and pineapple lend a sense of succulence that persists into a finish satisfyingly balancing fresh fruit, toasted nuts, and chalk. I would plan to enjoy this nicely-proportioned, generous, Meursault-like Bourgogne over the next couple of years. Antoine Jobard’s avowed upholding of his father’s “classic style” – enhanced by late bottling but with exclusively passive lees contact – extends to his preference for 2007 over the obviously richer, lower-acid 2005 and 2006 vintages, and his analogy with 2004 “except finer, less vegetal, and straighter” is born out by parallel tasting. While these 2007s display the brightness of acids, strong mineral cast, and energy that are hallmarks of 2007, few white Burgundy collections of the vintage were as tight and restrained last summer as was Jobard’s. He began picking already on September 3 and finished in only a week, in large part to guard acidity, although his must weights were already ample, and the finished wines – certain of which were lightly chaptalized – typically in the upper 12s in percent alcohol. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also imported by Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400