2003 Vieux Chateau Certan

Only 850 cases were made in 2003, the lowest production ever at this estate. The blend was 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot (the Merlot was baked in the heat of June, July and August). This wine has a 92- to 93-point bouquet, but only an 87-point palate. The complexity of the Cabernet Franc component provides a gorgeous nose of new saddle leather, forest floor, sous-bois, blueberries and black currants. Lush, attractive and beautifully fruity on the attack, it fades in the mouth, and lacks the depth and texture to back up the exquisite aromatics and entry. This fully mature 2003 is a success in this appellation that experienced many difficulties. Drink it over the next few years.

Mid garnet. Leafy, fresh graphite. Quite sweet, almost dried-fruited on the palate but not overly ripe. Lively, fine grained and finishes fresh and juicy. (JH)

(80% cabernet franc and 20% merlot) Medium red-ruby. Black plum, tobacco leaf, licorice, smoke and a vegetal note on the nose. Offers decent texture on entry, then turns rather green and herbal in the middle palate. This has some sweetness and life to it but finishes dry, with an impression of unabsorbed alcohol and a whiff of cabbage leaf. This rather soft wine can be drunk already. Thienpont has basically loathed this vintage from the outset, as VCC's early-maturing vines were badly burned by the heat of the summer.