2000 Vieux Chateau Certan

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied and, again, has clearly opened up in recent years. That said, there is still a sense of "old school" Pomerol, black truffle mixed with tobacco, perhaps higher acidity than expected. The finish has pleasant bitter cherry notes, though a little short on the aftertaste. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.

The 2000 Vieux-Château-Certan is a Pomerol that I had not encountered for some time. Perhaps this vintage has lost some of its initial luster, not least because the consensus from winemakers and consumers alike is that the appellation performed far better in 2001. This millennial VCC has a saturnine nose even after almost two decades, offering dusky black fruit, hints of chimney soot and tobacco, and later a whiff of licorice. It remains stubborn and sultry. The palate is quite muscular for a VCC, although fine acidity lends it tension. Where one might criticize Alexandre Thienpont’s wine for its lack of refinement and panache, for failing to realize the potential it showed during its first decade. As such, I would afford it another three or four years in bottle to see if it brightens up.