1998 Vieux Chateau Certan
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Tasting notes
‘Alexandre: “In 1998, Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignons reached maturity very early, and within a few days of each other. It’s rare. During this very hot summer, the Cabernet Francs suffered from excessive drought, which considerably slowed down their maturity and they did not make it into the final blend which was 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to Pomerol’s precocious soils, we were able to harvest before the heavy rains between 21 and 26 September. Small harvest of 34 hl/ha.” Unusual assemblage! Roy Richards has never encountered brett in his bottles of 1998. Deep crimson. Very sumptuous nose – beguiling texture. Gentle, gorgeous tannin management. Superb for me but the brett police reject it. But so lovely on the end. And very concentrated. But hopeless for anyone sensitive to brett. (JR)
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More reviews and scores
The 1998 Vieux Château Certan saw both the Merlot and Cabernet reaching maturity early and, unusually, around the same time due to the Cabernet Franc suffering during the drought. Ergo, the blend is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvest was September 21 to 26 and cropped at 34hl/ha. The bouquet is far superior to the 1996, as you would expect, quite vivacious and sensual black cherry and raspberry fruit, touches of wild mint, though it becomes pretty Bretty in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, fresh and lively, with fine grip with a crunchy blackberry, tar and allspice finish. This might actually constitute the best bottle of the 1998 that I have tasted. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.
The 1998 Vieux Château Certan has an open, generous and expressive bouquet that I have always found quite exotic in style, thanks to its precocious cassis and blueberry scents, although maturity is turning down the volume. As before, there are subtle notes of menthol developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, relatively voluptuous in style vis-à-vis other vintages. As the 1998 has aged, I feel it has never kicked on in terms of complexity as I initially hoped. Yet, this remains a thoroughly enjoyable VCC. Tasted over lunch in London.
About the producer
The original Château at Vieux Château Certan dates back to around 1770 but the modern history of the estate begins in 1924 - the year that Belgian wine merchant Georges Thienpont purchased the property.